Friday, November 22, 2013

Journey to the North! Part two: Laos - Huay Xia, Luang Prabang, VangVieng, Vientiane

Laos was a country of things we didn't expect (mostly because we hadn't done very much research before entering). We didn't anticipate a different currency, the kip, and especially one so inflated that you could spend a million kip on a nice table runner (or 10-20 thousand on a sandwich). Laos is also heavily influenced by the French because of French colonization until the 1950s and still prominent French tourism. We found baguette sandwiches and crepes for street food everywhere! The natural beauty of Laos is stunning with mountain ranges, forests, and rivers, the most notable river being the Mekong which runs along the southern border. We learned that one-third of the population lives below the poverty line and 90% of the roads in Laos are unpaved (the second part we experienced during an ultra bumpy, mountain mini-bus ride down what we thought was one of the main highways). We entered Laos through Huay Xai then took a two-day river boat ride down the Mekong River to the city of Luang Prabang, where we spent a few days. Next we went southeast to an outdoorsy town called Vang Vieng, and then out through Vientiane to go back to Thailand.

Here's a handy map of our route for your knowledge.

Our travels into Laos were accompanied by friends we picked up in Pai, Jani from Quebec and Stefan from Germany. Along the way we also gained Ricky from London and Stefanie from Montreal, so by the time we all separated we were a jolly group of six.



First day in Laos! We got to know the tiny border town of Huay Xai on a super-tour with a driver who took us to a school, whiskey village, chinese market, and small village. The first stop was a school that was originally built as a military base for the US sometime during the Vietnam war. Our guide showed us bullet holes that were still in the concrete walls.

At the school we joined in some exercises with the children! Huay Xai, Laos
An informative poster on the risks of eating food with dirty hands D: at the school in Huay Xai, Laos


The whiskey village: where sticky rice is fermented into hard alcohol. Here we're with Stefan and Jani also! Huay Xai, Laos.


Making rice whiskey, the product can be 60-70% alcohol.

So we got to try a sample!
But, they insisted that we finish the sample, which was an entire glass--super hard rice whiskey, no chaser. Guy definitely pulled his weight on this one.
We walked through a small village in Huay Xai. It was a glimpse into a community that lived on an extremely low income. We felt uncomfortable walking through, knowing our wealth and privilege.

 

Our tuk-tuk tour of Huay Xai!

Street food veggie-spring rolls wrapped in lettuce leaves, and other leaves. They were stuffed with an eggplant paste and bean sprouts.


A temple in Huay Xai, Laos -- overlooking the Mekong river and Thailand across the way.

A temple in Huay Xai, Laos -- overlooking the Mekong river and Thailand across the way.

On the Mekong River traveling through Laos! We saw beautiful scenery and untouched nature all along the two day boat ride to Luang Prabang.

A view from our guest house in Pakbeng, the half way point on the two-day journey.

Guy and Stefan playing chess. They were both extremely skilled, diligent players. I defeated both of them! And also lost to both. The boat time was a leisurely time of napping, reading, conversations, chess, and watching the landscape roll by.

Backpackers emerging from the boat onto land! We made it to Luang Prabang, Laos.

VEGETARIAN BUFFET?!? Oh yes. For only 10,000 kip (about $1.30). So delicious and overwhelming we went two nights in a row. This was definitely one of the food highlights of the trip. Luang Prabang, Laos.

Monks at the Kouang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos 

We had an awesome time swimming, jumping from a rope swing, and even jumping off a waterfall! Kouang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos
Kouang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos


Kouang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos

Ahhhhh bananas, battered, then deep fried. Kouang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos

Flower and leaf arrangements for offerings at temples and shrines, Luang Prabang.

Jani and I woke up at 5:30am to see the monks ask for morning alms. We bought a basket of sticky rice, bananas, and crackers to place in their bowls as they walked by. There were over 100 monks walking past over the course of an hour. (This photo was taken by another tourist who was taking photos of us with his camera, so we asked him to take photos using mine! haha)

Baguette sandwiches in Luang Prabang!

Visiting a waterfall park with trails in Luang Prabang

A major ant road intersecting our path

A small village to walk to from the park.

They were massaging this large, pregnant pig with a lot of care and kindness.

Lilies at the park

A temple in Luang Prabang with a much more cheerful gaurdian dog than we were used to from Thailand.

Guy always connects with the cats of Asia.

Reclining Buddha, Mount Phousi

Posing with a Buddha on Mount Phousi, Luang Prabang

View from the top of the highest temple in Luang Prabang, on Mount Phousi. We had a 360 view of the entire city, the river, and the landscape beyond.

Jani and I on top of Mount Phousi.

An awesome hot pot dinner after a long day of walking and hiking the steps of Mount Phousi. The vegetables were delicious and the coals were burning hot.

After playing a new-learned game, Irish poker, we visited the only place open in Luang Prabang after 11:30: the Bowling Alley. Wooo!!!


Arriving in he town of Vang Vieng --remember to drive on the right side of the road in Laos!

The mountains surrounding Vang Vieng were gorgeous. 
Another view of Vang Vieng, around sunset.
On a hike to some caves by the Blue Lagoon in Vang Vieng!
Really cool rock formations all along the path leading to the cave.
Inside the big cave at the Blue Lagoon, Vang Vieng.
The Silver Flower Cave aka Golden Flower Cave aka A Cave of Golden Flower Created by Nature. It sounded too promising to pass up!

Getting a guided tour of the Silver-Golden Flower Cave. This man lived near the entrance to the cave and was the caretaker/gaurdian/tourguide. He pointed out a lot of the cool and interesting features!
The Silver-Golden Flower Cave, Vang Vieng.
The Silver-Golden Flower Cave, Vang Vieng.
Blue Lagoon Cave, Vang Vieng.
Blue Lagoon Cave, Vang Vieng.
Walking on the path to the Silver-Golden Flower Cave, Vang Vieng.
Riding through the countryside of Vang Vieng.
Riding through the countryside of Vang Vieng.
Riding through the countryside of Vang Vieng.
Riding through the countryside of Vang Vieng.
On the bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, and onward to Thailand.
Back at our homebase in Thailand, the Bamboo Guest House. After a 12 hour overnight bus journey we abruptly arrived in Bangkok at 5:30am. We were near the guest house but too early to check in so we spent two hours at a Burger King reading and playing chess (side-note, Burger King is one of the most expensive restaurants we've seen in Thailand with U.S. prices). One of the owners of the guest house has visited Issaquah, WA in the past! Today he was wearing a "Washington, The Evergreen State" shirt. So refreshing to find a piece of home after being away for so long.